In a review of The Devil’s Larder, Jim Crace’s new collection of stories and vignettes about food, The New York Times highlights Crace’s “satirizing the fashion for organic food — which relatively few around the world can afford.” The author “tells of eggs produced by hens ‘protected from extremes of heat and cold, free from hunger and thirst, free to range… free to express themselves.’ They are expensive of course; the townspeople make three sandwiches out of one fried egg.”
A bit of suppertime satire, but one not far from reality. Organic Valley marketing director Theresa Marquez offers this bizarre thought: “The question is not, why is organic food so expensive. The question is, why are the foods we are eating now so cheap.”